Wiping leather with water is something many people consider taboo. Even Yasutomi, who advocates this method, once firmly believed that “water is leather's great enemy.”
But some years ago, a saddle soap for leather that he came across in the UK became the turning point that greatly changed his stance on shoe care. Half in doubt—“Wash leather?”—he tried it, and the leather was revived beyond recognition.
“People often say ‘leather breathes well,’ but that's not quite right. Strictly speaking, the surface of the leather doesn't have holes in it; rather, the fibers have a ‘breathing action’ in which they absorb moisture and release it. It's a function that goes beyond breathability.”
Yet when dirt accumulates inside the leather, that breathing action slows. By wiping with water, you can draw the dirt out and restore the leather to a healthy state.
Step 1. Brushing
Start by brushing off the dust, working to scrape out dirt lodged in the gaps along the edges and in the seams. When you're short on time, even brushing alone makes a difference.
Step 2. Prepare water
Fill a basin with water and wring out a towel loosely, so it's still dripping. Lukewarm water is fine, but avoid hot water at all costs; it will damage your precious leather.
Step 3. Wipe the outside with water
Wipe evenly so the whole shoe gets wet, then go over it with a light patting motion. Letting the water soak into the leather lifts away old cream and mud.
Step 4. Wipe the inside with water
Once the outside is done, don't forget to wipe the inside with water too. For the toe area, which is hard to reach by hand, push a small towel in with the handle of a brush or the like. You'll be surprised how much dirt comes out!
No uneven wiping!
The key when wiping with water is to wipe the whole shoe evenly. If you miss a spot, the dirt accumulated in the leather may be pushed along and form a ring stain at the edge of the wet area.
Step 5. Dry in the shade
Once the whole shoe has been wiped clean, leave it to dry in the shade in a well-ventilated spot. Exposure to direct sunlight can warp and set the leather or make it hard, so avoid it at all costs.
Caring for napped leather
Remove dirt from napped leather with friction!
Unlike sleek smooth leather, napped leathers such as suede, velour, and nubuck, whose surfaces are covered in fibers, tend to trap dirt between the fibers, where it is hard to remove. The best way to get rid of this stubborn dirt is to use friction. Brush the surface firmly with something fairly stiff, such as a nylon brush, a wire brush, or a sponge. When using a brush, it works best to rotate it from the inside outward.
Napped leather can be wiped with water too!
Napped leather is often assumed to be even less tolerant of water than smooth leather, but in fact it can be wiped with water too. Just note that if it dries with the nap flattened by moisture, it will stiffen, so brush it once it's dry.
