Brush in every direction to remove dirt. For the finish, brush in a single direction to set the nap.
Napped leather picks up dirt easily, and it soaks in easily too. Because the surface isn't smooth, it can't be polished, so maintenance is limited to little more than brushing. That means it needs a bit of extra care in everyday handling.
Maintenance basically means raising the nap that has been flattened through use and brushing out the dirt caught between the fibers. When removing dirt, brush in every direction, but for the finish, mind the lay of the nap and brush in one direction. Napped leather also doesn't repel water; it soaks right in. Applying a waterproofing or water-repellent spray for leather as part of your routine will help prevent water stains.
Step 1. First, remove the laces
Remove the laces so you can brush the tongue thoroughly. Skip this, and dirt will keep building up on the tongue, where it may soak into the leather and become impossible to remove.
Step 2. Insert shoe trees
Insert shoe trees to keep the shoes from losing their shape. Always use ones that fit the shape of the shoe; forcing in an oversized pair will stretch the leather, so take care.
Step 3. Brush away the dirt
Use a brush to remove the dirt. When the goal is cleaning, don't worry about the direction of the nap; brush from every direction. Move the brush so as to raise the flattened nap and scrape out the dirt.
Step 4. Use a crepe rubber for stubborn dirt
Rub off stuck-on dirt with a suede rubber. As the rubber gets dirty, switch to a clean part of it. You can press fairly hard, but it leaves marks, so work while keeping an eye on how the area blends with its surroundings.
Step 5. Waterproof and stain-proof with a waterproofing spray
Once all the dirt is gone, apply a waterproofing spray for leather. Unlike smooth leather, napped leather lets water droplets soak in immediately, so a waterproofing spray is a must.
Step 6. Finally, set the nap
Once the waterproofing spray has dried, brush once more to set the nap. As you brush, make a point of reaching the fine details such as the seams.
Step 7. Done!
Just brushing and setting the nap makes napped leather look remarkably cleaner. To keep dirt from settling in, make a habit of frequent brushing and waterproofing spray.
Remove stains by wetting the whole shoe
When napped leather such as suede or nubuck gets wet and dries, a stain tends to form along the boundary between the wet and dry areas. For stains like these, wet the entire shoe to lift the dirt out of the stain and remove it, then dry in the shade.
If it won't come out, re-dyeing is an option
As napped leather gets used over time, it can pick up dirt that won't come out even with maintenance. In such cases, one option is to take the plunge and re-dye it to make the dirt less noticeable.
