A little extra effort before the season begins delivers a fit and look you can be happy with.
Soften up leather that has gone stiff and rigid!
Winter arrives, and the leather jacket you pull out to wear feels oddly stiff and rigid… The likely cause is hardening from a lack of oils. What you can count on here is a highly moisturizing wax.
The key is to spread the wax thinly and leave it for half a day so it penetrates deep into the leather. Incidentally,
“I recommend applying the wax at night,”
says Takagi. Apply it before bed, and the next morning all you need is a dry wipe before you can wear it.
If you want even more softness, there is also a last-resort trick: adding a “damp wipe.” Soak a cloth in lukewarm water, wring it out firmly, wipe the areas that bother you, and then apply the wax. Be aware, though, that some leathers are prone to uneven coloring.
Step 1. Remove dirt and dust first
Before applying wax, start by brushing off dirt and dust. Brush especially carefully in places where dust tends to collect, such as the seams and around the zippers.
Step 2. A “thin” coat of wax is enough
Take a thin layer of wax on a sponge or cloth and spread it over the leather with light, quick strokes. Use about 5 g of wax per jacket. There is no need to apply so much that the leather feels moist.
Step 3. Work it in by hand for better results
After applying the wax, work it in by hand on any areas you want to make softer. Brushing places where wax tends to build up, such as zippers and seams, helps prevent unevenness.
Step 4. Finish with a dry wipe
Once the wax is on, always let the jacket rest for at least half a day so it penetrates deep into the leather. Then wipe off the excess oil left on the surface with a dry cloth—gently stroking rather than scrubbing.
Step 5. Re-wax any areas that still bother you
Try the jacket on, and if any areas still feel stiff or tight, work wax into them again. Take a slightly larger amount of wax on the sponge and spread it with light strokes.
Step 6. Don't forget the underarms and back
When checking for stiffness or tightness, it's a good idea to wear the clothes you'd most often wear underneath and move your body around. Apply more wax wherever movement feels restricted.
Step 7. Move your body to work it in
Don't wipe off this wax; let it soak in by moving your body and kneading it in by hand. Incidentally, during the season, caring for the jacket about once a month will keep it in top condition.
Step 8. Done!
The oils have soaked deep into the leather, bringing out suppleness and luster. And because the wax was applied with the jacket on and the body in motion, you can see it has also gained the three-dimensional shape of a jacket worn for years.
Care goods that bring out suppleness
- A brush with thinned-out pig bristles for extra softness. Safe even on delicate leather.
- A slightly firmer pig-bristle brush. Effectively removes dust and dirt.
- A horsehair brush. Brushing with this after applying wax spreads it more evenly.
- A cloth for dry wiping.
- A sponge for applying wax.
- A cloth for applying wax.
- Tenjin Works' original “Jojoba Wax,” with excellent moisturizing properties (20 g / ¥950).
One more step for that “just-right” worn-in look
If you want to give a brand-new jacket, or one that has stiffened from neglected care, that “worn-to-death” look, we recommend adding nuance by hand. Knead the collar, tug at the pockets and cuffs… Even doing this in a few spots creates the right atmosphere.
